This page describes the build and adjustments for a typical watch. All parts are reviewed under a microscope post cleaning and assembled with synthetic lubricants and a photographic record. Checks and adjustments are made as required.

I’ve chosen this Omega Seamaster (calibre 565) from the late 1960s which arrived in complete but non running condition.

The full service document for this watch is available here.

All jewels, bearings, arbors, wheels, pivots and so on are reviewed with a microscope post cleaning.

 Watchmaker showing service microscope inspection of jewels

Watchmaker showing service microscope inspection of pivots

 This can identify further worn parts such as this rotor post (new post shown on right, pre-cleaning).

 Watchmaker showing service microscope inspection

The balance jewels are oiled and fitted, the balance cock remounted and then the hairspring is adjusted for concentricity, flatness and centering in the regulator pins.

Watchmaker showing service microscope view of hairspring and regulator pins

The balance is then removed and the second wheel/cannon pinion plus keyless works are installed.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

I typically fit a new mainspring and then the barrel and bridge are installed, end and side shakes checked/adjusted as the build progresses.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

The train is then installed.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

With the pallet fork and balance fitted, the base movement running.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

I leave this to run for a few days and make any adjustments necessary to obtain the best performance, using the mechanical watch tester.

For this calibre, the centre seconds pinion and tension spring are fitted.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

Turned over, the calendar plate and associated parts are fitted.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

When the final checks with this configuration are complete, the dial and hands are fitted – this watch also needed a new seconds hand.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

For this calibre, I build the automatic bridge assembly separately and fit after the movement is refitted into the case. This shows the parts after checking under the microscope.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

And assembled.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

The case was cleaned and pressure tested with a new Omega crystal, crown and case seal.

The movement is now refitted to the case with a new stem, trimmed to length, and crown.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

Automatic bridge added.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

Case back refitted.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565

Watch is complete and goes into final testing as described here.

Watchmaker showing typical watch service - Omega Seamaster 60m, calibre 565